Ask anyone why they fell for Crete and food comes up within the first minute. The island cooks simply, with very good olive oil, wild greens, mountain cheeses and herbs, and portions that assume you are sharing. Rethymno’s old town is one of the best places on the island to eat that way, because there are dozens of tavernas within a few minutes’ walk of each other.
This guide has our own favourites, the dishes we tell every guest to try and a few rules for picking a good taverna on your own.
Our favourites
Bakalogatos: meze, ouzo and tsipouro
If we had to pick one place in the old town, it would be Bakalogatos. It is a relaxed meze taverna near Titou Petichaki Square, where you order a carafe of tsipouro or raki and a stream of small plates arrives with it: grilled meats, seafood, fried courgette, dips. The staff are happy to recommend, and the bill often comes with a plate of warm loukoumades (honey doughnuts) on the house.
- Go for: a long, loud dinner with friends.
- Order: several plates to share and let the table fill up.
Cannibale: burgers by the sea
When you have had enough meze for one trip, Cannibale on Eleftheriou Venizelou, the seafront promenade, does big, proper burgers and ribs. It is our pick for a casual lunch after the beach or a quick dinner before a walk along the sea.
Avli: for a special evening (100 m)
Avli sits in a Venetian courtyard about 100 m from the suites and is one of the most celebrated restaurants in Crete. The cooking takes Cretan ingredients (wild goat, mountain herbs, honey, grape molasses) and treats them with care, and the wine list is long. It costs more than a taverna, so save it for an anniversary or a last night, and book ahead in summer.
Alana (100 m)
Alana, also about 100 m from our door, is a popular old-town restaurant with a pretty courtyard and a menu that leans towards fish and seafood. A good choice when you want something a step up from a taverna without going all out.
More places locals and guests recommend
| Place | What it is | Good for |
|---|---|---|
| 1600 Raki Ba Raki | Meze and raki bar in the old town | Creative small plates and a lively evening |
| Prima Plora | Seafood restaurant on the waterfront, west of the Fortezza | Fish with a sea view at sunset |
| Zisis | Traditional grill taverna, a short drive out of town | Huge portions of grilled meat, a real local crowd |
| Cul de Sac (200 m) | Café-bar in the old town | Coffee by day, a drink at night |
Opening days change between summer and winter. Check before you go, or ask us on the day.
Tip from your hosts: the restaurants right on the Venetian harbour have the view. The lanes one or two streets behind them often have the better food and prices. Have a drink by the water at sunset, then walk back into the old town for dinner.
Cretan dishes you should try
- Dakos: a barley rusk topped with grated tomato, soft mizithra cheese, olive oil and oregano. The perfect light lunch.
- Kalitsounia: small pies filled with soft cheese or wild greens, baked or fried. Sometimes served with honey.
- Gamopilafo: the “wedding pilaf”, rice cooked slowly in a rich meat broth and finished with butter and lemon.
- Chochlioi boubouristi: snails fried face-down in olive oil with rosemary and vinegar. More delicious than they sound.
- Staka: a rich, buttery cream skimmed from goat’s or sheep’s milk, often served with fried eggs or fries.
- Apaki: smoked, marinated pork, served as a meze.
- Graviera: Crete’s famous hard cheese, often fried (saganaki) or drizzled with honey.
- Raki (tsikoudia): the local spirit, clear and strong, almost always offered at the end of the meal with fruit or a small sweet.
Sweet things and breakfast
Bougatsa is the classic Cretan breakfast: thin crisp phyllo filled with soft mizithra cheese, sprinkled with sugar. Any good bakery in the morning will have it, and it goes perfectly with a Greek coffee.
Rethymno also has a proud tradition of handmade phyllo and kataifi. The family workshop of Giorgos Hatziparaschos on Vernardou Street has made it by hand for decades. If it is open when you pass, look in: watching a sheet of dough stretched to the size of a table is something you will not forget.
At the suites: breakfast is served at a partner restaurant just 100 m away, at an extra charge. Ask us when you book. Every suite also has an espresso machine, a kettle and a fridge, and there is a mini market 5 m from the door, so a slow breakfast on your own balcony is always an option.
How to choose a good taverna
- Look one street back from the harbour and the main squares.
- Follow the locals. A busy taverna at 22:00 with Greek families at the tables is a very good sign.
- Ask for the dish of the day. Many tavernas cook seasonal dishes that are not on the printed menu.
- Share everything. Order several plates for the table rather than one main course each.
- Avoid the picture menus with photos of every dish in six languages.
Plan the rest of your day
Pair a long lunch with a walk to the Fortezza or the harbour (see our plan for 2 days in Rethymno), or spend the afternoon on one of the beaches nearby.
When you stay with us, just ask what we would eat tonight. We will tell you honestly, and we are happy to call ahead and book a table. Kali orexi!
See our suites, all a few minutes’ walk from every place in this guide.
Questions & answers
What food is Rethymno known for?
Rethymno is known for classic Cretan cooking: dakos (barley rusk with tomato and cheese), kalitsounia (small cheese pies), gamopilafo (wedding pilaf), snails cooked in olive oil and rosemary, and raki served after every meal. The town also has a long tradition of handmade phyllo and kataifi pastry.
Do I need to book restaurants in Rethymno?
For the best-known places, yes, especially in July and August and for a table with a view. For most tavernas you can just walk in, but arriving after 21:30 in summer may mean a wait.
What time do people eat dinner in Crete?
Late. Locals usually sit down for dinner between 21:00 and 22:30. Tavernas open from around 19:00, so if you prefer to eat early you will easily find a table.
Where do locals eat in Rethymno?
Usually one or two streets back from the harbour and the main squares, in meze places and tavernas of the old town, or in grill tavernas just outside town. A taverna full of Greek families at 22:00 is a very good sign.
Where can I have breakfast in Rethymno old town?
A bougatsa with mizithra cheese and a Greek coffee at the cafés around the Rimondi Fountain is the classic choice. For our guests, breakfast is served at a partner restaurant 100 m from the suites, at an extra charge.
Is tipping expected in Rethymno?
It is appreciated but not required. Rounding up the bill or leaving around 5–10% for good service is common.
