Rethymno’s old town is one of the best-preserved in Crete. Venetian mansions with carved stone doorways stand next to Ottoman wooden balconies and minarets, and the whole thing is small enough to cross on foot in fifteen minutes. That is what makes two days here so good: you never need a car, a ticket queue or a plan B.

This is the plan we give our own guests. Every distance is measured from our front door in the old town, and everything in Day 1 is within 400 m.

Before you start: the shape of the town

Picture the old town as a triangle. The Fortezza sits on the hill at the western tip. The Venetian harbour is on the north side, by the sea. The Great Gate (Porta Guora) marks the southern edge, where the old walls used to be. Everything in between is lanes, small squares and courtyards, and you will get lost at least once. That is part of it.

Day 1: the Venetian town

Morning: coffee at the Rimondi Fountain (150 m)

Start slowly. The Rimondi Fountain was built in 1626 by the Venetian governor, and its three carved lion heads still pour water. The cafés around it are the old town’s living room in the morning, so order a Greek coffee and watch the town wake up.

A few steps away is the Venetian Loggia, a 16th-century arcaded building where the nobles once met. From there, follow any lane that climbs: they all end at the fortress.

Late morning: the Fortezza (300 m)

The Fortezza is the Venetian fortress that crowns the hill above the town, built in the 1570s after pirate raids. Inside its walls you will find a large open plateau with the domed Mosque of Sultan Ibrahim, small churches, old storerooms and the best views in Rethymno, over the rooftops on one side and open sea on the other.

• Time needed: 1 to 1.5 hours.
• Bring: water and a hat. There is almost no shade at the top.

Tip from your hosts: walk the whole outer wall clockwise. The north-west bastions are quieter, and on clear days you can see the mountains of the Chania region in the distance.

Lunch and a rest

Come back down for lunch in the lanes, then do as the locals do and rest through the hottest hours. In summer, nothing much happens in town between 14:00 and 17:00 anyway. For ideas on where to eat, see our guide to eating in Rethymno.

Afternoon: one museum, not three

Rethymno’s museums are small and easy to enjoy in under an hour. Pick the one that suits you:

• Archaeological Museum (350 m): housed in the Venetian church of St Francis, with finds from Minoan to Roman times.
• Historical & Folklore Museum (200 m): everyday Cretan life, with weaving, embroidery, tools and costumes, in a Venetian mansion.
• Centre of Byzantine Art (350 m): icons and church art in a restored old-town building.

Evening: sunset at the Venetian harbour (350 m)

Walk down to the small round Venetian harbour about an hour before sunset. Stroll out along the breakwater to the Egyptian lighthouse, built in the 1830s, for the classic view back over the harbour and the Fortezza. The harbour itself is lined with fish tavernas. They have the best setting, though often better value is found a street or two back.

Day 2: sea, gardens and hidden corners

Morning: choose your mood

Option A: the beach (600 m). Rethymno’s long sandy town beach starts just east of the marina, less than 10 minutes on foot. Near town it has sunbeds and beach bars, and the further east you walk, the quieter it gets. Want something different? See our guide to the best beaches near Rethymno.

Option B: Arkadi Monastery (22 km). Arkadi is the most important historic site in the region. In 1866, during the Cretan revolt against Ottoman rule, hundreds of defenders and refugees chose to blow up the powder store rather than surrender. The monastery’s Venetian-style church front is one of the most photographed in Crete. It is about 30 minutes by car or taxi, and there are KTEL buses a few times a day. You will be back in town for lunch.

Afternoon: the Great Gate and the minarets

After lunch, find Porta Guora, the Great Gate. It is the only surviving gate of the old Venetian walls and still the main way into the old town from the south. From there, wander towards the slender minaret of the Neratze Mosque, one of the symbols of the town. The building now hosts a music school.

Finish in the Municipal Garden (550 m), a shady park just outside the old walls, perfect for the hottest part of a summer afternoon.

Evening: get lost on purpose

On your last night, put the phone away and wander. The lanes around the suites are full of small tavernas, wine bars and courtyards strung with lights. Look up: the wooden Ottoman balconies (sachnisia) that hang over the lanes are easiest to spot in the evening light. End the night with a glass of raki, which is often offered on the house at the end of a meal.

Every old-town sight, with walking distances

All distances are from John & Mary Suites. None of them needs a car.

If it rains (or it is winter)

Rethymno is a real town with a university, so it stays alive all year. On a rainy day, swap the beach for the museums, spend the afternoon in a traditional kafeneio over meze and raki, and visit the Fortezza on the next dry morning. In winter, opening hours are shorter, often until mid-afternoon, so do your sightseeing in the morning.

Good to know

• Comfortable shoes are a must. The lanes are paved with stone and some are steep.
• Opening hours of the Fortezza and the museums change with the season. Check them on the day.
• Cash and cards: most places take cards, but small kafeneia and kiosks prefer cash. There is an ATM 5 m from our door.
• Water: carry a bottle. There is a mini market right next to the suites.

Arriving soon?

If you have not planned the journey yet, read how to get to Rethymno from the airports. When you arrive, ask us anything: where the sunset is best that evening, which museum is open, where to eat tonight.

Planning your stay? See our suites, all within a few minutes’ walk of everything in this guide.